Say hello to the city of water and lights. The banks of the Love River, fresh from a massive clean up and some clever landscaping, is a great place for watching people, evening performances and the occasional light and fireworks display. Postcard pretty Alishan is treasured for its cool forest walks and breathtaking sunrises because it stands 2, 200 m above sea level. Jump on a train from Kaohsiung to Jiayi and take the quaint railway - one of three mountain rails in the world - to the reserve. The train zig zags up Alishan, reversing direction at each section of the line as it gradually ascends the mountain, a process incongruously referred to by locals as ‘Train Hits the Wall’. Find a different world in Fokuangshan, the city’s spiritual and cultural heartbeat and home to the tallest sculpture of Buddha in Taiwan. Outside, 4870 life- sized Buddha statues line the quiet garden path. Surreal.